Phantom Forest, Knysna, South Africa (Part 2)

Despite our mixed feelings about a dinner which was inventive in its creation but somewhat lacking in the execution, we decided to try it again the second night. I seem to have forgotten to take a photo of the Apple Soup with Celery and Walnut Salsa and Szechwan Pepper Apple Slivers. Does that sound like an unnecessary mouthful? Well it was. The ingredients are classically paired but this cold starter probably summed up the dining experience of the entire stay: Sounds mouthwatering, looks great but in the end, over-engineered.


Our starters were a Smoked Venison Pate with Tobacco Caviar and Wonton Crisp. I’m not entirely sure what tobacco cavier is but I have a feeling that I’m not alone in that. Whatever it is though, I had etched into my mind as soon as I saw the menu, the stench of smokers lighting up on the table next to me before I’d finished eating. The venison pate in itself was good enough so they could have come up with a better name for it!

Coriander Mousse with Lemongrass Sesame Seeded Prawns, Asian Noodle with Coconut and Lime Dressing. Now this was very good to say the least. The mousse was as ingenious as it was delicious. Smooth and refreshing against the rest of the spices. Only minor point was that the prawns were a touch over-cooked.

Grapefruit and Blue Curacao Sorbet. A good palate cleanser with nice flavours too.

Duck Breast with Pea and Sweet Potato Fritters, Ginger and Sesame Seed Broccoli Florets, Honey Soy Cinnamon. Yet another dish with overly-long name, which could do itself a favour by letting the food do the talking. Despite pointing out that the steak the night before had been over-cooked, the chef clearly didn’t learn the lesson with the duck. The broccoli was cooked and flavoured to precision and the fritters were very good, but once again the sauce was too salty.

Honey and Cumin Impala with Harissa Creamed Corn, Wilted Spinach and Carrot Linguini. To call carrot that has been shredded and blanched “linguini” seemed a bit obnoxious to me but I let it slide since the rest of the dish was beautifully composed. Any empathy that my wife had for the cute little impala that we saw on safari, with long eyelashes and an innocent pout, evaporated as soon as she tasted the first bite. Probably the best dish of the trip.

After a pre-pudding pudding of Hugenourt Cheese with Raisin and Spice Roast Nuts (which I forgot to take a photo of) we tucked into the desserts.

Pine Apple Tart Tatin with Rooibos Ice Cream

Coco Yin and Yang Tartlet with Cardamom White Chocolate Mousse and Lavender Dark Chocolate Mousse.

After two nights of this gastronomic experience, my conclusion is that the chef is certainly creative and the menu made interesting reading every night in the bar before dinner. Some of the dishes felt like they were trying to do too much though and they could have been even better had they been kept simple. I guess you don’t know unless you try but I feel the overcooking of the meat (twice) and over-salting of some sauces were unforgivable. Nonetheless I would rather experience something bold and new that just missed the mark in its final delivery, than something I could have whipped up at home with my eyes closed. Most of all though the restaurant is a great one-off experience to match the outstandingly beautiful surroundings of this resort. I would highly recommend a visit.

Phantom Forest is located just west of Knysna , along South Africa's famous Garden Route.
http://www.phantomforest.com/Default.aspx